Take a look at any decent center console built today and you will likely find an impressive dashboard with large MFD's, laser cut backlit labels, and push-button switches from companies like Bocatech.
I am usually impressed with the durability and installation of marine components however recent back-lighting issues left me under impressed with how most manufacturers are implementing back-lighting and how it can lead to reliability issues.
The problem has to do with the lighting method which employs the use of a low amperage lighting strand. Electroluminescent wiring or EL wire is commonly used because it is flexible, easy to install and produces an even non-directional glow. EL wire works by feeding AC current through a copper core wire coated with phosphor, creating current flow to 2 additional conductor wires wrapped around the copper sleeve. The electrical charge excites electrons in the phosphor coating which result in the release of energy in the form of light waves. PVC coatings protect the wire and are dyed to produce the desired colored glow. Although the EL wire construction is durable, like many low amperage lighting products, the wiring is microscopic compared to typical marine installations.
The wiring and AC inverter come preassembled from factory as one sealed unit and are "strung" as needed to provide back-lighting to the switch panel.
If you encounter a problem where the light string goes dark, it may likely be a short where the inverter wiring is spliced to the EL wire. Your favorite service tech will probably want to pull the panel and replace the entire strand and inverter. Because the lighting is put in-place before the switches are installed, you may be shocked by the amount of time the repair will take and the related costs. Alternatively, EL wire can be spliced successfully and often will address the issue.
DC power should be checked to the inverter and AC output should be verified.
This tutorial shows you how to cut and solder EL wire to a power supply.
Update: If you follow the splicing instructions below, you will probably realize it isn't something you want to do repeatedly, but it's still much better than replacing the EL string.
Consider following the splicing instructions but add a connector for flexibility should you need to replace inverter or expand connections in the future.
You may also find that the Techlite inverter used by many boat manufactures can be costly to replace. Although you are better off replacing a suspected faulty inverter with the original make and model, generic inverters exist and are much cheaper.
Splicing EL Wire
Step 1
Cut the wire to the desired length and the strip at least one centimeter of the colored PVC coating. You will see that the inner core is separated in a clear shell.
Step 2
Gently cut the clear shell. Take caution to not cut the two angel hair wires. Once you removed the clear shell you are left with the phosphor coated core and the two angel hair wires.
Step 3
Scrape off the phosphor from the core wire. Make sure the is no phosphor left
Step 4
Put a small piece of copper tape around the end of the colored coating. Put a little bit of solder onto the copper and solder the two angel hair wires onto the copper.
Step 5
Take a wire from the AC inverter and solder the blank black wire to the core center wire and solder the wire with the white stripes from the inverter to the copper where the angel hair wires are soldered. Insulate both connections with heat shrink tubing. At last put a bigger piece of heat shrink tubing over the copper tape part and on the other end of the wire to create a durable insulated connection.
